Templates

All six worksheets, each with its own combined Tips & FAQs tab, plus offline versions of every one of the site's nine calculators — twenty-three tabs in one workbook with an index that jumps straight to any of them. Rent vs. buy, closing costs, refinance break-even, mortgage points, first-time buyer programs, the early payoff tracker, and working payment, affordability, monthly-debt, HELOC, ARM-vs-fixed, PMI removal, refinance, points, and first-time-buyer calculators. Plus the site's full 6,500-word national buying guide for offline reading. The nine calculator tabs are only available here.

Every fee that typically shows up on a mortgage closing statement — lender fees, appraisal, title, government charges, and prepaids — with a Yes/No column to check against your own Loan Estimate and side-by-side estimated vs. actual totals that add themselves up.

Works out whether a refinance actually pays for itself: your break-even month, a check on whether you'll still own the home by then, and the lifetime-interest comparison that shows when a lower monthly payment quietly costs more overall.

Compare up to three real point quotes side by side — what each costs, what it saves monthly, when it breaks even, and which one genuinely costs least across the years you'll actually keep the loan.

Three assistance programs lined up side by side, with each one's income, purchase-price, and credit-score limits checked against your own numbers — plus a stacking column for which can be combined and a source row for where every limit came from.

A live 360-month amortization schedule that recalculates as you change your extra payment — showing the months you cut off the loan, the interest you never pay, and an honest side-by-side against investing the same money instead.

All four insurance worksheets, each with its own combined Tips & FAQs tab, plus offline versions of all five of the site's insurance calculators — fourteen tabs in one workbook with an index that jumps straight to any of them. The coverage audit, claim log, home inventory and renewal tracker, and working premium-estimator, replacement-cost, coverage-check, deductible-comparison, and renewal-check calculators. The five calculator tabs are only available here. Every state-varying figure is left blank rather than hardcoded, because an average baked into a file on your disk goes stale where nobody can correct it — the free pages on the site carry the sourced, cited number.

Walk your declarations page line by line, then check Coverage A against a real rebuild estimate — square footage, local cost per square foot, and the extras that estimate misses. Works the 80% coinsurance rule live, so you can see the exact percentage a partial loss would be paid at, converts your percentage catastrophe deductible into the dollars you'd actually have to produce, and closes with a Yes/No gaps checklist for the eight endorsements most often missing from a policy someone believes is full coverage.

The list you cannot make after a fire. Room by room, priced at replacement cost rather than what you paid, with a category dropdown that feeds a live sub-limit check — because Coverage C carries per-category caps inside it, and a comfortable total limit routinely hides jewelry or silverware sitting far over its own. Uses the ISO 03 22 figures, which raised nearly every category from the edition most consumer material still quotes, and marks which caps apply only to theft — the detail write-ups reverse most often.

Your renewal increase measured against your state's published change, then four quotes on identical rows — because carriers quote different limits and deductibles, so the cheapest premium is routinely the least coverage. Converts each percentage wind deductible into real dollars, adds the extra deductible exposure a cheaper premium bought you, and says outright when the lowest premium is not the lowest cost. Closes with a decision log and a lapse check on the two policy dates.

The record a claim is actually decided on. A claim header block, a contact log with a column for what was promised and whether you followed up, a damaged-items inventory that totals replacement cost against ACV so the recoverable depreciation is a number and not a surprise, an ALE log built around the increase over your normal spending rather than your gross spending, and a milestone tracker with target and actual dates.

All three investment worksheets, each with its own combined Tips & FAQs tab, plus offline versions of both of the site's other investment calculators — nine tabs in one workbook with an index. It follows a property's whole life: cash-to-close tells you what getting in costs, the deal analyzer what one year looks like, the P&L tracker what the year you owned it actually did on Schedule E, the hold-period tab what the whole hold returns, and the roll-up what your portfolio looks like once there is more than one. The two calculator tabs are only available here.

The year you actually own the property, laid out line for line against IRS Schedule E with the form's own line numbers in a column. Works out the 27.5-year straight-line depreciation deduction under the mid-month convention that most self-preparers under-claim, then runs the section 469(i) passive-loss allowance and its phase-out to tell you whether you can use a loss this year or whether it suspends. Tracks adjusted basis for the eventual sale, and states plainly which figures the de minimis safe harbor and section 199A actually carry today.

Ten properties on one page, using the same definitions as the Deal Analyzer so the two agree exactly. Gives you portfolio equity, loan-to-value, cap rate, cash flow and DSCR — the figures lenders increasingly underwrite an experienced investor on rather than looking at one property alone — plus a per-property flag for weak coverage. The concentration panel is the part no single property's page can show: how much of you sits in one county, with one insurance carrier, or on debt that all reprices in the same year.

Works a rental the way an underwriter does: gross rent through vacancy to collected income, operating expenses to net operating income, and only then the mortgage — so cap rate describes the property and cash flow describes your deal on it. Management is charged on rent actually collected rather than on the lease amount, the capital reserve is its own line instead of being buried in maintenance, and a sanity panel checks your expense ratio against the 35-55% range while flagging a missing reserve, a zero vacancy assumption, or an unpriced management fee. Closes with the rent you'd need to break even and the price that would deliver the cap rate you're actually targeting.

Which account to draw first, priced rather than asserted: what the next thousand dollars costs from a taxable account, a traditional one, a Roth and an HSA, side by side on your own rates. Names the three cliffs a withdrawal can push you over without warning — the IRMAA Medicare surcharge assessed on your income from two years ago, the provisional-income threshold that makes Social Security taxable, and the capital-gains 0% ceiling — and deliberately leaves their figures blank rather than hardcoding thresholds that change annually. Counts the years between now and your RMD start age, because that window is where the largest decision in the whole worksheet lives.

Four states against one retiree's actual income mix rather than against a headline rate, because a headline rate is almost never what a retiree pays. Social Security, 401(k) withdrawals, and private, public and military pensions each get their own row — states treat them very differently, and several exempt a government or military pension in full while taxing a private one. Age is an input because a large number of state exclusions are age-triggered. Then the part most comparisons omit: a state with no income tax raises the money somewhere, and for someone who owns a home outright the property tax line is frequently larger.

Every traditional, SEP and SIMPLE IRA you own, in one place, because the IRS aggregates them into a single number and a forgotten rollover account at an old provider counts exactly as much as the one you use. Works out what a conversion actually costs and states plainly whether it is clean. Built around the two things people get wrong: the measurement date is 31 December rather than the day you converted — which means a rollover completed in December still rescues the year — and the after-tax basis is tracked by you rather than by your custodian, so a missing Form 8606 means paying tax twice on the same money.

One number, itemised, with the taxable amount working your state's trade-in rule live rather than leaving it to you to remember: four states with a sales tax credit nothing against a trade-in, and Ohio credits it against a new vehicle only. Checks a documentation fee against the nine statutory caps this site has confirmed, and is explicit that the other 41 states are unresearched rather than uncapped. Prices the F&I office as the optional extra it is, and adds the trade-in payoff back into the amount financed — because negative equity does not disappear when you trade the car, it moves into the new loan and accrues interest.

The same car both ways over the same term, using this site's own lease definitions — depreciation base, the rent charge computed on capitalized cost PLUS residual, and the money-factor-to-APR conversion that turns a quoted 0.00300 back into the 7.2% it actually is. Prices the excess-mileage bill from the miles you really drive rather than the allowance you were sold. Then the line that decides it and is nearly always left out: what the car is still worth when a loan ends and a lease does not, which is why leasing so often looks cheaper than it is.

Lines up your real monthly rent against a real all-in mortgage payment — taxes, insurance, PMI, HOA, and a maintenance reserve included, not just principal and interest — then works out how many months of staying put it takes before buying pays back its upfront cost.

Every dollar assigned before the month starts, with a live "left to assign" that has to reach exactly zero — a positive figure being money with no job, which is the money that disappears without anyone deciding where it went. Planned against actual on every line, with the variance where the month gets honest. Built on take-home pay rather than gross, because a plan built on gross hands you a needs budget you cannot fund. Includes an irregular-income row for a fixed monthly draw, and computes your 50/30/20 shares from your own numbers rather than asserting them.

Eight debts on one page with both payoff orders ranked automatically, so you can see how different avalanche and snowball actually are on your own numbers — usually less than expected. Computes the balance-weighted average rate rather than a plain average of the rates, which is the figure a consolidation offer genuinely has to beat and the one that makes most of them look worse than the marketing does. Shows the interest accruing each month before a dollar of principal moves, ranks your own levers so you spend effort where it pays, and gives you a 24-month log plus the re-accumulation defences that decide whether the plan survives month five.

Two offers priced as packages rather than as salaries. A discretionary bonus is discounted for what it actually is, the employer retirement contribution goes in as dollars rather than a formula, the health premium you pay comes off, and private equity is valued at what you would genuinely pay for it in cash today. It deliberately does NOT compute your tax — filing status, dependents and local tax all move it, and a guessed figure would look authoritative and be wrong; enter each offer's real take-home instead and the comparable-net row does the rest. Ends with the five things no number on the page captures, because in a close decision those are the decision.

Two lines on a payslip are exact percentages set by statute and identical for every employer, which makes them checkable rather than merely recordable. This recomputes Social Security and Medicare from your own gross — subtracting the Section 125 health premium and HSA that reduce the FICA base, and pointedly not the 401(k) deferral that does not — then compares both against what was actually withheld and names the difference. It handles the pay period that straddles the Social Security wage base, ties your computed net against the printed net before it will let you read anything else, and is explicit about which lines cannot be checked here and why.

The cash a move actually takes, split into what comes back and what never does — because a deposit and an application fee are different kinds of money and averaging them hides the real cost. Covers the lines people plan for and the ones they do not: the overlap month when two leases run at once, utility deposits, cleaning the old place, and unpaid time off. Gives you the total as a multiple of one month's rent so you can see whether yours is normal, a straight answer on whether your cash covers it, and a before-you-sign checklist built around the evidence that actually decides a deposit dispute.

A renewal increase is an annual cost; a move is a one-off cost. This works out how many months the cheaper rent has to last before it repays the move, and checks that against how long you would honestly stay — which is the actual question and one almost nobody does the arithmetic on. Says so plainly when the new place costs more and there is no break-even to compute. Pairs with the Move-In Cost Planner for the moving figure, and closes with the negotiation the numbers make possible: a landlord's cost of turnover is frequently larger than the increase being asked for, and that is leverage you hold only until you say yes.